Met up with an old friend (Dan Hulme) yesterday and surfed in Pacifica at Rockaway beach. Whenever I check that spot- which isn't often- it is horrible and no one is out. However, yesterday there was a pack out right against the south cliff and a 6-7 foot right breaking into a channel. Low tide was making it throw a little. My wave of the day was a big set and was so fun!!! Dropped in and it was kind of holding back so I turned left to get deep, then turned right as the whole section walled out in front of me and hit the shallow sandbar. Seeing it coming I set a high line on my too floaty 6'4'' epoxy Dan loaned me and the green wall heaved over me. Inside the barrel was all green- no foam- and the sound was like the sucking of a draining tub amplified. After pulling into weak little summer barrels the last few months it was a reminder what a real hollow barrel is. I hardly had to crouch! Should have made it out but the board was so floaty and the fish tail didn't really stick so I caught a rail and went up and over with the lip I was watching two seconds earlier. Stoked!!!
This is the wave. Not many were barreling- the one I got was a little surprise.
Check out this video of chandeliers galore!
This is the wave. Not many were barreling- the one I got was a little surprise.Check out this video of chandeliers galore!
2 comments:
Explanation on the entry heading - Chandeliers brah! Surfers, like most white people, have to be so original. So we were surfing at the harbor a few years ago and the local rat pack was yelling out "Chandeliers! Chandeliers, brah!" As guys pulled into white watery pits. We always make fun and yell that in our most stoned, bro-d out drawl possible for a good barrel. Hence the title.
Ryan, I know very little about surfing but I felt like I was in the water with that amazing description. We're excited for you to be our new neighbor!
Post a Comment